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--- blog:commodore_c64_dtv_hacking [2023/01/21 16:12] – [IEC Bus / 1541 Floppy / SD2IEC Disk Drive Connection] john
+++ blog:commodore_c64_dtv_hacking [2023/01/31 11:29] (current) – [Power Supply] john
@@ Line 1: / Line 1: @@
 ====== Commodore C64 DTV Hacking ======
-All pinouts below are looking in to the connector, //not the solder side//, unless otherwise states.
+From [[https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/C64_Direct-to-TV|Wikipedia]]:
-All diagrams are correct for the DTV v2 (aka 'PAL') unit. DTV v1 and 'Hummer' models differ.
+> The C64 Direct-to-TV, called C64DTV for short, is a single-chip implementation of the Commodore 64 computer, contained in a joystick (modeled after the mid-1980s Competition Pro
+> joystick), with 30 built-in games. The design is similar to the Atari Classics 10-in-1 TV Game. The circuitry of the C64DTV was designed by Jeri Ellsworth, a computer chip designer who
+> had previously designed the C-One.
+These are my notes on converting the C64 DTV into a capable, full-featured 8bit computer system. I've written these notes down since a lot of the information on the C64 DTV has been lost over the years. This is a combination of the old web pages I've found, technical specs and my own findings/diagrams used to build my own C64 DTV Computer System.
+{{:blog:c64:commodore64_dtv_mugshot-x600.jpg?200|}}
+Firstly, there are some key things to look out for with the different versions of the DTV:
+== DTV (version 1) ==
+  * 128 kbytes RAM
+  * 2048 kbytes ROM
+  * DMA memory transfer engine
+  * Example serial/date codes:
+    * 041107
+    * 041103
+== DTV (version 2) ==
+  * 2048 kbytes RAM
+  * 2048 kbytes Flash
+  * DMA memory transfer engine
+  * Blitter engine with bugged transparency mode - //not-fixable//
+  * 256 colour 'chunky' display mode
+  * 8bit digital audio
+  * Chroma/Luma bugged - //fixable//
+  * Example serial/date codes:
+     * 050728
+     * 050919
+     * 050921
+     * 050927
+== DTV (version 3) ==
+  * 2048 kbytes RAM
+  * 2048 kbytes Flash
+  * DMA memory transfer engine
+  * Blitter engine - //working transparency//
+  * 256 colour 'chunky' display mode
+  * 8bit digital audio
+  * Chroma/Luma output fixed
+  * Example serial/date codes:
+      * 050927
+      * 051005
+      * 051008
+      * 060118
+== Hummer Game ==
+The 'Hummer' offroad game model is mostly similar to the later DTV (version 3), so has all of the bugged-features fixes, //but// a number of useful signals are not present on the board (i.e. it doesn't have all the joystick lines available), so it presents more of a challenge.
+----
+Realistically, the //best// version is clearly the DTV (version 3) which has all of the bugs fixed. But the DTV (version 2) is definitely useable if you are prepared to fix the Chroma/Luma output (linked below). Non-working blitter transparency is a pain, but could be worked around. If you want to take advantage of the unique DTV features, then the DTV (version 1) is **not** what you want.
+You can see that there is a period in September 2005 when the production of the DTV (version 2) change to the (version 3). If you want a fixed model then you need to look for serial numbers around or above **0509xx**.
 ==== Power Supply ====
-The DTV normally gets ~6v from 4x AA batteries in the joystick. But also has a red LED connected which regulates down the supply to the 3.3v circuitry on the PCB, as used by a number of the chips. If the DTV is removed from the case and original power switch and LED, it is important that a LED is refitted to remain as a regulator.
+The DTV normally gets ~6v from 4x AA batteries in the joystick. But also has a red LED connected which is used as part of the regulator circuit to reduce the supply down to the 3.3v circuitry on the PCB, as used by a number of the chips. If the DTV is removed from the case and original power switch and LED, it is important that a LED is refitted to remain as a regulator.
 //Note: The LED should have a **forward voltage** rating of **1.8v**.//
+=== Power Switch Wiring - DTV 1 ===
+On a DTV 1, the power switch is wired as follows:
+{{:blog:c64:img20230128171536.jpg?500|}}
+Note that the (black) ground wire is soldered directly to the battery tab (the - terminal). The floating (red) positive wire is soldered to the battery tab (+ terminal).
+=== Power Switch Sub-Board ===
+A more detailed image of the power switch sub-board:
+{{:blog:c64:img20230131102833.jpg?400|}}
+From left to right, the connections above are:
+   * LED - (~+3.3v return to PCB)
+   * LED + (+5v from PCB)
+   * VDD + (+5v to PCB, connected by switch)
+   * VCC + (+5v from battery compartment, connected to switch)
+Seen from above, and with the plastic cover removed, the power supply sub-board also has markings to indicate the connections:
+{{:blog:c64:img20230131103754.jpg?400|}}
+In summary:
+{{:blog:c64:c64_dtv_v1_psu.png?500|}}
+=== Power Switch Wiring - DTV 2/3 ===
 ==== Joystick Port 1 ====
@@ Line 38: / Line 125: @@
 //Note: As standard the DTV supports only US English keyboard mappings, as well as not enabling the F7 key. There are modifications to change this, if they are required. This is probably not an important concern for English speakers or those with US (or UK, with minor inconveniences) keyboards.//
+==== Sources for Ground ====
+{{:blog:c64:c64_dtv_v2_ground.png?700|}}
+Some easily accessible areas for connecting to ground. The large flat area to the left of the SDRAM chip (left edge of board, top) is probably the easiest to clear and get access to without having to worry about other components.
 ==== Other Useful Diagrams ====