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| blog:commodore_c64_dtv_hacking [2023/01/31 10:17] – [Commodore C64 DTV Hacking] john | blog:commodore_c64_dtv_hacking [2023/01/31 11:29] (current) – [Power Supply] john | ||
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| ====== Commodore C64 DTV Hacking ====== | ====== Commodore C64 DTV Hacking ====== | ||
| - | |||
| - | ~~TOC_HERE 2-5~~ | ||
| From [[https:// | From [[https:// | ||
| Line 9: | Line 7: | ||
| > had previously designed the C-One. | > had previously designed the C-One. | ||
| - | These are my on hacking | + | These are my notes on converting |
| {{: | {{: | ||
| Line 20: | Line 18: | ||
| * 2048 kbytes ROM | * 2048 kbytes ROM | ||
| * DMA memory transfer engine | * DMA memory transfer engine | ||
| + | * Example serial/date codes: | ||
| + | * 041107 | ||
| + | * 041103 | ||
| + | |||
| == DTV (version 2) == | == DTV (version 2) == | ||
| Line 30: | Line 32: | ||
| * 8bit digital audio | * 8bit digital audio | ||
| * Chroma/Luma bugged - // | * Chroma/Luma bugged - // | ||
| + | * Example serial/date codes: | ||
| + | * 050728 | ||
| + | * 050919 | ||
| + | * 050921 | ||
| + | * 050927 | ||
| == DTV (version 3) == | == DTV (version 3) == | ||
| Line 40: | Line 47: | ||
| * 8bit digital audio | * 8bit digital audio | ||
| * Chroma/Luma output fixed | * Chroma/Luma output fixed | ||
| + | * Example serial/date codes: | ||
| + | * 050927 | ||
| + | * 051005 | ||
| + | * 051008 | ||
| + | * 060118 | ||
| == Hummer Game == | == Hummer Game == | ||
| - | The ' | + | The ' |
| ---- | ---- | ||
| Realistically, | Realistically, | ||
| + | |||
| + | You can see that there is a period in September 2005 when the production of the DTV (version 2) change to the (version 3). If you want a fixed model then you need to look for serial numbers around or above **0509xx**. | ||
| ==== Power Supply ==== | ==== Power Supply ==== | ||
| - | The DTV normally gets ~6v from 4x AA batteries in the joystick. But also has a red LED connected which regulates down the supply to the 3.3v circuitry on the PCB, as used by a number of the chips. If the DTV is removed from the case and original power switch and LED, it is important that a LED is refitted to remain as a regulator. | + | The DTV normally gets ~6v from 4x AA batteries in the joystick. But also has a red LED connected which is used as part of the regulator circuit to reduce |
| //Note: The LED should have a **forward voltage** rating of **1.8v**.// | //Note: The LED should have a **forward voltage** rating of **1.8v**.// | ||
| + | === Power Switch Wiring - DTV 1 === | ||
| + | |||
| + | On a DTV 1, the power switch is wired as follows: | ||
| + | |||
| + | {{: | ||
| + | |||
| + | Note that the (black) ground wire is soldered directly to the battery tab (the - terminal). The floating (red) positive wire is soldered to the battery tab (+ terminal). | ||
| + | |||
| + | === Power Switch Sub-Board === | ||
| + | |||
| + | A more detailed image of the power switch sub-board: | ||
| + | |||
| + | {{: | ||
| + | |||
| + | From left to right, the connections above are: | ||
| + | |||
| + | * LED - (~+3.3v return to PCB) | ||
| + | * LED + (+5v from PCB) | ||
| + | * VDD + (+5v to PCB, connected by switch) | ||
| + | * VCC + (+5v from battery compartment, | ||
| + | |||
| + | Seen from above, and with the plastic cover removed, the power supply sub-board also has markings to indicate the connections: | ||
| + | |||
| + | {{: | ||
| + | |||
| + | In summary: | ||
| + | |||
| + | {{: | ||
| + | |||
| + | === Power Switch Wiring - DTV 2/3 === | ||
| ==== Joystick Port 1 ==== | ==== Joystick Port 1 ==== | ||