Commodore C64 DTV Hacking

This is an old revision of the document!

All pinouts below are looking in to the connector, not the solder side, unless otherwise states.

All diagrams are correct for the DTV v2 (aka 'PAL') unit. DTV v1 and 'Hummer' models differ.

The DTV normally gets ~6v from 4x AA batteries in the joystick. But also has a red LED connected which regulates down the supply to the 3.3v circuitry on the PCB, as used by a number of the chips. If the DTV is removed from the case and original power switch and LED, it is important that a LED is refitted to remain as a regulator.

Note: The LED should have a forward voltage rating of 1.8v.

Note: +5v is only needed for some additional joystick functionality, most sticks don't use this, so it is safe to leave unconnected.

Joystick port 2 is recommended to be in place, since most (unpatched) C64 games typically expect to find port 2 used for the controller on an original C64. It's also what the DTV joystick itself is normally connected to.

Note: +5v is only needed for some additional joystick functionality, most sticks don't use this, so it is safe to leave unconnected.

This is my take on the IEC/SD2IEC 1541-III setup with a configurable internal/external/off setup for the IEC bus. Using a 4PDT switch I can toggle the IEC bus between having CLK/DATA/ATN connected to the internal SD2IEC drive, or to the rear panel if I ever want to use a real 1541-III (or similar) floppy drive.

As noted on the diagram, the connections are made to the solder points at each end of the capacitor marked C10. The capacitor should be removed, and this will also disable composite video output.

Note: As standard the DTV supports only US English keyboard mappings, as well as not enabling the F7 key. There are modifications to change this, if they are required. This is probably not an important concern for English speakers or those with US (or UK, with minor inconveniences) keyboards.